[the final Sand Point journal]
I have mixed feelings today. On the one hand I’m really happy to be returning to Anchorage tomorrow—John, SALAD, school, and my critters are calling. Elaine (the other 4th grade teacher at my school) accepting the other position has really jarred me back to thoughts of school and made me feel like I need to be getting back to school. On the other hand, I’m not really ready to go back. I’m making great connections and loving exploring.
We arrive at camp and most people are scurrying about trying to get their projects done before tomorrow’s potluck, performance, and auction. Whenever we tell people here that we’re leaving tomorrow, they all kind of cluck sadly and say we’re missing the best part of camp… not something we have a lot of discretion over, so we try not to worry. Fortunately, Mike, Wolfgang, and John—the kayak guys—have planned a launch for this year’s iqyax. This will happen later today and will be a wonderful culminating event for me and Liza.
I need to finish my headdress, but am in a holding pattern. Apparently they’re running low on the clear beads for the reflection strands. Ithaca asked about them last night, but they told her to wait until tonight to make sure all the students had enough clear beads.
I’m okay with not being done though… I’m overwhelmed by the tedium of the headdress. Our headdress instructor doesn’t actually seem to want to teach us how to do it… or maybe it’s not just us… anyway, I always feel like an imposition—which isn’t any fun. I like the beading, but prefer working with Merle. With Merle I learn a ton about beading and life here (she now lives outside of Anchorage, but used to live in Sand Point), because our headdress instructor isn’t around much. I start and work on a new necklace instead.
As we finish lunch, people are talking about the iqyax launch. It’s unclear to me how we’re supposed to get to the launch… but of course we’re going—right?? The launch is supposed to occur at 4pm (or is it 4:30?—time here seems to be pretty flexible). At around 3pm, many people are already leaving. Merle prompts us to find a ride. (She’s worried we won’t get to go otherwise.) We ask Dawn and her husband, Robert, if we can ride with them. They say yes, but I’m hesitant to go with them because we have to ride in the bed of the truck. In the nick of time, Crystal and Sally offer to drive us. We thank Dawn and Robert, but end up going with Crystal and Sally.
The girls are going to wear their full regalia to the event. Crystal teaches the girls to dance and so puts on her regalia as well. It’s full leather with fur—she’s tugging at it in the car, because it’s so warm. I can tell she’s excited for the girls. We’re excited too.
When we get to the beach by the airport, there is lots of positive commotion. The boys are gathered around the iqyax and some are in regalia for the dancing too. The girls are giddy and hugging—just like middle/high school girls any place. It’s clear that they’re not getting started right away.
Merle asks me if I want to learn how to find sea glass. Of course!! I’ve always thought sea glass was cool. Unfortunately there isn’t much sea glass in Arizona (duh!) and in San Diego, where I’ve vacationed, beaches are completely picked over. I’ve never seen sea glass on a beach.
I really enjoy the walk. Merle tells me to look at the shore line; the most recent tidal deliveries are there. We find all sorts of treasures—pumice (which is made of ash and air—I had no idea), agate (which I also found on Mussel Beach, where we went the first day for the sea survival), beautiful shells, and sea glass. After about a half hour of happy hunting, we return to watch the iqyax launch.
The launch begins with a singer from the Russian Orthodox Church. She sings and sprinkles this year’s kayak and last year’s kayak with Holy Water. The kids follow Crystal and Karis’ lead and begin singing and dancing. It’s a very special moment as Wolfgang (one of the iqyax builders) climbs into the iqyax and forges into the water.
I notice that Wolfgang wears a modern swimming suit and vest. I think this speaks to the juxtaposition that is present in so much of life here. Sand Point has rich traditions, but many of the amenities of contemporary life.
As things wrap up, Merle takes me for another walk to find more sea glass. I capture one of my favorite trip photos—Merle’s hands in the smooth sand. So much of my trip has been structured around Merle’s agile hands guiding my learning the beading. It’s great to capture her enjoying herself as she talked about playing in Sand Point’s sand when she was a child.
When we turn back we realize that many people have left. Merle rode over with the church singer, who is older and had to be taken back immediately. We notice Crystal has already left too. (I see that Sally hasn’t left yet and suspect that we will have a ride after all.) At any rate, Merle suggests we look for a ride. A man overhears that we’re looking for a ride. He offers to take us back to Camp.
Ordinarily I would never, ever get in a car with a stranger… but this isn’t ordinarily, this is Sand Point. So, Merle, Liza, and I pile into the car with this man and his 2 kids. No car seats. His little girl sit on his lap while he drives and his son sits on the arm rest. His son is eating a Twix bar and discovering the wonders of melted chocolate. After pinching the Twix bar to see the caramel squish out, he begins pushing his hands together and then pulling them apart to make a sucking sound. In the midst of this, Merle tells the man that they’re related—Merle’s cousin is this man’s mom. The man turns to his son and tells him that Merle is his cousin. We all agree that the cousinliest thing that the boy can do is not hug Merle :)
When we arrive back at camp, things begin to wrap up. Liza and I talk about meeting up with Merle near Anchorage. Liza, Ingrid, and Ithaca all frantically try to finish their headdresses. (I’m more concerned with finishing my necklace.) I share my Bering Sea Headdress with my instructor. She likes it and gives me the beads to finish the reflector strands. Liza and I share thank you cards with Merle, Carla, Mike, and the camp staff.
Before heading back to the hotel, we all agree to meet at one of the bars about 10:30pm.
Mike, Liza, and I meet just after 10pm and he takes us for one more visit to Trident. Trident is always an uncomfortable place to visit. It smells. Employees aren’t happy to be there and the many, many workmen tend to stare. We stopped by mainly to see when their cafeteria was open, since Liza and I needed to find breakfast for Saturday. Their breakfast was served from 5am to 7am, which gives you an idea of the type of schedule Trident employees have to keep. (Trident brings in almost all of their workers from out of the state or country—hiring almost no locals, which is a contentious issue.) We leave Trident and meet up with Ingrid.
The four of us head over to The Tavern. The Tavern is crowded and loud. None of the instructors are there, so we head over to The Lounge.
The Lounge is the bar attached to our hotel. When we get there, there are several other people in the bar, but just the 4 of us that I know.
Mike is treating everyone to drinks, which is very generous. It’s odd because, even though the food is much more expensive, alcohol is comparably priced in Sand Point as it is in Anchorage.
Mike shows us his pictures of the trip which are incredible. The background is a progression of drunken men hitting on anyone who stands up. This one guy keeps coming over and announcing his “name,” which changes every time he stops by the table.
After looking at photos for awhile, Crystal and Sally arrive and are followed shortly after by Carla, Karis, and Serge. This one guy—Artie—starts hanging around just after they arrive. He’s mostly interested in Ingrid, but seems to be trying to hit on everyone simultaneously. Carla knows him and keeps warning him to “calm down” and “be nice”. Ingrid, Liza, and I are clearly discomfited by his behavior.
The bar is closing and lots of people are headed over to The Tavern. I don’t want to go—it’s already midnight—but I do feel badly about not joining Crystal, Sally, Carla, Karis, and Serge at The Tavern, since they just got here. Mike, Liza, Ingrid, and I all decide to call it a night. As we’re walking away, Artie tries to keep me there by stepping on my foot. I seriously doubt this has ever worked on a girl! I pulled my foot out and walked away; he called Liza and I assholes, but I was okay with that. Simultaneously some other guy pulled on Liza’s purse strap. Mike, Ingrid, Liza, and I waited a few minutes until the awkward people had left the area. Then we said our goodbyes and Liza and I went to our room.
Liza and I are looking forward to going home. I have met some wonderful people and lived a week in this beautiful place. I came here thinking I’d learn about the Aleut/Unangan Culture. I learned more about village culture—the way that Unangan culture is carried out every day. Unfortunately, like any culture, there are good and bad aspects. I’d imagined that Unangan Culture would be some sacred, sparkly treasure. Instead, I learned the more universal aspects of all cultures—the search for a sustaining livelihood, a better life for their children, and negotiating friendship, love, and set-backs.
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