Tuesday, July 6, 2010

Being Safe with Bears and Moose

Critters in Alaska are BIG... okay, well, bears and moose are big. They're not just big... they are huge!! I figured I better figure out how to stay safe around these (not so gentle) giants. (Although, to be fair, I haven't seen one yet that isn't stuffed.) This also has safety information about being in nature in Alaska.

I found the following safety information at Kenai Peninsula.org

Safety

Common sense and respect for wildlife will keep most wildlife viewers safe; however, the Kenai offers opportunities to have closer wildlife encounters than intended and to find oneself in wild lands within a short distance of well-traveled highways. Investing a few minutes before heading out to review this safety information may help you to be better prepared to avoid uncomfortable or even dangerous situations.

Safety in Bear Country

ALL OF THE KENAI IS BEAR COUNTRY
Most people who see a bear in the wild consider it a highlight of their trip. The presence of these majestic creatures is a reminder of how privileged we are to share some of the country’s dwindling wilderness.

Bears are curious, intelligent and potentially dangerous animals, but undue fear of bears can endanger both bears and people. Respecting bears and learning proper behavior in their territory will help so that neither you nor the bears will suffer needlessly. Keep the following "bear facts" in mind:

BEARS DON’T LIKE SURPRISES
If you are hiking through bear country, make your presence known—especially where the terrain or vegetation makes it hard to see. Make noise, sing, talk loudly or tie a bell to your pack. If possible, travel with a group. Groups are noisier and easier for bears to detect. Avoid thick brush. If you can’t, try to walk with the wind at your back so your scent will warn bears of your presence. Contrary to popular belief, bears can see almost as well as people, but trust their noses much more than their eyes or ears. Always let bears know you are there. Bears, like humans, use trails and roads. Don’t set up camp close to a trail they might use. Detour around areas where you see or smell carcasses of fish or animals, or see scavengers congregated. A bear’s food may be there and if the bear is nearby, it may defend the cache aggressively.


DON’T CROWD BEARS

Give bears plenty of room. Some bears are more tolerant than others, but everybear has a personal "space" — the distance within which a bear feels threatened. If you stray within that zone, a bear may react aggressively. When photographing bears, use long lenses; getting close for a great shot could put you inside the danger zone.

CLOSE ENCOUNTERS: WHAT TO DO
If you see a bear, avoid it if you can. Give the bear every opportunity to avoid you. If you do encounter a bear at close distance, remain calm. Attacks are rare. Chances are, you are not in danger. Most bears are interested only in protecting food, cubs, or their "personal space." Once the threat is removed, they will move on. Remember the following:

Identify Yourself
Let the bear know you are human. Talk to the bear in a normal voice. Wave your arms. Help the bear recognize you. If a bear cannot tell what you are, it may come closer or stand on its hind legs to get a better look or smell. A standing bear is usually curious, not threatening. You may try to back away slowly diagonally, but if the bear follows, stop and hold your ground.

Female bears can be

fierce defenders of

their young. Getting

between a female

and her cubs is a

serious mistake. A

female bear may

respond aggressively

to any threat she

perceives to her cubs.

Don’t Run: You can’t outrun a bear. They have been clocked at speeds up to 35 mph, and like dogs, they will chase fleeing animals. Bears often make bluff charges, sometimes to within 10 feet of their adversary, without making contact. Continue waving your arms and talking to the bear. If the bear gets too close, raise your voice and be more aggressive. Bang pots and pans. Use noisemakers. Never imitate bear sounds or make a high-pitched squeal.

If Attacked If a bear actually makes contact, you have two choices: play dead or fight back. The best choice depends on whether the bear is reacting defensively or is seeking food. Play dead if you are attacked by a brown bear you have surprised, encountered on a carcass, or any female bear that seems to be protecting cubs. Lie flat on your stomach, or curl up in a ball with your hands behind your neck. Typically, a bear will break off its attack once it feels the threat has been eliminated. Remain motionless for as long as possible. If you move, and the bear sees or hears you, it may return and renew its attack. Rarely, lone black or brown bears may perceive a person as potential food. Fight any bear that follows you or breaks into a tent or building. Fight any black bear regardless of circumstances.

In most cases, bears are not a threat, but they do deserve your respect and attention. When traveling in bear country, keep alert and enjoy the opportunity to see these magnificent animals in their natural habitat.

BEARS ARE ALWAYS LOOKING FOR SOMETHING TO EAT Bears have only about six months to build up fat reserves for their long winter hibernation. Don’t let them learn human food or garbage is an easy meal. It is both foolish and illegal to feed bears, either on purpose or by leaving food or garbage that attracts them.

Cook away from your tent. Store all food away from your campsite. Hang food out of reach of bears if possible. If no trees are available, store your food in airtight or specially designed bear-proof containers. Remember, pets and their food may also attract bears.

Keep a clean camp. Wash your dishes. Avoid smelly food like bacon and smoked fish. Keep food smells off your clothing. Burn garbage completely in a hot fire and pack out the remains. Food and garbage are equally attractive to a bear so treat them with equal care. Burying garbage is a waste of time. Bears have keen noses and are great diggers.

If a bear approaches while you are fishing, stop fishing. If you have a fish on your line, don’t let it splash. If that’s not possible, cut your line. If a bear learns it can obtain fish just by approaching fishermen, it will return for more.

Safety in Moose Country

Moose are common year-round throughout the Kenai Peninsula. In addition to roaming the backcountry, they often venture into towns—where they munch on ornamental trees, stroll down suburban streets, and bed down beside houses. Local residents have learned to live with and (usually) enjoy the presence of these magnificent critters.

Moose are not inherently aggressive. However, an angry or frightened moose—weighing hundreds of pounds and equipped with a repertoire of powerful kicks and stomps—can be a lethal force. Each year in Alaska, more people are injured by moose than by bears. Enjoying moose safely means understanding some basic rules of etiquette.

Give moose plenty

of space—at least

100 feet. When you

encounter a moose,

make sure both you

and the animal have

options for a digni-

fied, safe retreat.


• Give moose plenty of space—at least 100 feet. When you encounter a moose, make sure both you and the animal have options for a dignified, safe retreat.

• If a moose doesn’t yield as you approach, give it the trail.

• Never get between a cow moose and her calf.

• Watch carefully for signs that a moose is upset: if t raises its hackles (the hairs on the top of its shoulders), pins its ears back like an angry horse, or licks its lips repeatedly, you’re too close. Back away slowly, keeping your eye on the animal.

• If you are charged by a moose, keep a tree or other large object between yourself and the animal. If you are in the open, run away—moose do not usually chase for very far.

Although it’s not nearly as remote as some regions of Alaska, the Kenai Peninsula is a much "wilder" driving experience than many are accustomed to. Many roads—even the major highways—are narrow, steep, and winding. Some sections have no services for dozens of miles. Weather conditions, especially in fall, winter and spring, can change quickly and dramatically, and roads can be extremely icy or snowy in the cold seasons.

To ensure a safe trip, plan ahead. Familiarize yourself with your route ahead of time, and carry good maps. It’s a good idea to bring along an emergency kit that includes food, warm clothes, some sort of signal device, and first aid materials. A cell phone can be a lifesaver, but be aware that cell phone coverage is not uniform on the peninsula. If you’re traveling in winter, add a shovel, blankets, ice scraper and extra warm clothes to your kit.

In response to a claim that this offered "too much information" I truncated out the "Ways to Die of Hypothermia and Giardia".

6 comments:

  1. reading this is like watching an episode of man versus wild. you learn a couple things (especially how to fight hypothermia or don't mess with animal babies) but the main message is that without an emergency pack with the key items you need you're pretty much done from the start.

    luckily, linds, you have the apocalypse bag. totally useful for being adventurous. (i'm being serious)

    as for me, all i need to survive is that emergency kit and a pack of shibas. they can hunt game as large as bear (usually just boar and fowl, though) in packs. we'd be fine.

    ok, probably not.

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  2. TMI - TMI! I'm not planning on drinking water from the streams, and/or going anywhere you'd have to fight a black bear. I'll be happy to try out the bakery, see your apartment and classroom, check out where John works/will work, and leave it at that. No apocalypse bag needed - EVER!

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  3. What about the zoo, Mom? ;)

    I actually haven't seen any live (or recently dead) critters... just dogs (not wild) and geese, seagulls (A LOT), and magpies. I think you're safe... we won't have to hide in the apartment, and I promise to give you water from the tap.

    Kyle, Dad has our bags (I don't think they're actually called apocalypse bags)... so, let's hope they're not necessary. We do have a flashlight-- Do you think that would be enough? I'm thinking you might want the other pack of s's-- shotguns... might be more effective than shibas. Incidentally, we were at Petco the other day. There was a book about how to train the hard-to-train dog... with a shiba inu on the cover.

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  4. Is it crazy that when i saw this, all i thought of was functional text? And that example you found for the exam, something about a bear in a car? I seem to remember an image like that, at any rate...

    Glad you've yet to be mauled. I think after a year you may be an expert in Alaskan know-how.

    -andrew

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  5. linds,

    i thought dad was shipping the bags to you, especially because of the earthquake threat (side note: i'm looking forward to your lengthy retrospective on the earthquake of 1964). just in case anyone doesn't realize how often alaska has earthquakes, they have had 3 earthquakes in the mid 3's over the last 48 hours according to USGS.

    you might want more than a flashlight. i would think water, knife+flint, pot and dehydrated food, but whatever.


    shibas are easy to teach tricks but their independent (but somehow pack-driven) nature can make obedience training a pain. luckily, they instincts make them easy to potty train--they hate having a mess in their 'den.' the (sometimes impossibly) tough one is recall, which has to be taught to puppies or their temperament will override that training. and they nip, which can be super difficult to change; it's taken us a year to completely defeat that instinct. tricks, though, as long as you know what motivates them are super easy. last night, on a whim i decided to teach crawl, beg (kind of, more like sit high), and reinforced settle as a 'play dead.' taro picked them all up quickly.

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  6. Yeah-- I know there have been a lot of earthquakes since we got here... we haven't felt any of them and I hope to keep it that way ;)

    Andrew, functional text is AWESOME!

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